birding...

Birding in the Mascarene Islands (Reunion, Mauritius & Rodrigues)

Together the islands of Reunion, Mauritius and Rodrigues form the Mascarene archipelago, which lies 700kms to the east of Madagascar. Situated between the equator and the Tropic of Capricorn, the islands' volcanic origins date back some 13 million years. Today, only Reunion retains an active volcano, the formidable Piton de-la-Fournaise. It also claims the highest peak in the Indian Ocean, the 3069m Piton des Neiges.

Man arrived settled on these sublime tropical island sonly about 400 years ago. But almost nowhere else on Earth, have Human activities had such a devastating effect on indigenous flora and fauna as has been the case on the Mascarenes. The wave of avian extinctions which consequently occurred on these islands, is perhaps paralleled only by that which took place on the Hawaiian archipelago.

There were very few native mammals on the Mascarene islands. Only bats, which were able to fly across, established themselves. Worth a mention here, is the endangered Rodrigues fruit bat, recently saved from extinction by the Durrell Wildlife Conservation Trust.

There were also not many indigenous herps (reptiles and frogs); although Mauritius and the small offshore islet known as Round Island, still hold an impressive reptile fauna including endemic skinks, geckos and snakes. But the birds of the Mascarenes, were absolutely remarkable, including such distinctive species as the extinct Dodo (dronte) of Mauritius and its compatriots on Reunion and Rodrigues, the equally bizarre Solitaires.

The early settlers found three islands largely clad in tropical hardwood forests. Quickly, these forests were felled. (Only on mountainous Reunion do large tracts of original forest still exist). What remains in Mauritius and Rodrigues, are mere token remnants in a severely degraded state. The extraordinary birds were considered little more than a readily available food supply. It did not take the settlers much time to wipe out a long list of unique species.

Today, Mauritius retains 8 endemic birds, Reunion 9 and Rodrigues 2. There are also a few species common to Reunion and Mauritius (2) and high on the lists of visiting birders, some very rare and localized seabirds. In the space of a week, it is fairly easy to see all the lifers one can tick off in the Mascarenes. The Field Guide to the Birds of the Indian Ocean Islands by Ian Sinclair and Olivier Langrand (Struik, 1998); renders identification asimple process.

Mauritius

Some of the world's rarest birds are endemic to Mauritius. The Mauritius kestrel, once down to 4 individuals, is one of the great conservation success stories, again to be credited to the Durrell Wildlife Conservation Trust, which has done incredible work in Mauritius. A similarly impressive achievement on the part of the DWCT has been saving the Pink Pigeon from extinction.

Today both these species are well represented in captive collections, as well as thriving wild populations which are breeding successfully. At present, the DWCT is involved in rescuing yet another critically endangered Mauritian endemic, the Echo parakeet, which too, was hovering on the brink. With a bit of luck, it is possible to see all three these 'megaticks' in their natural habitat at Black River Gorges National Park, south-east Mauritius. And while there, look for some other rare endemics - the Mauritius cuckoo-shrike, the Mauritius bulbul, the pretty Mauritius fody and Mauritius olive white-eye, are all to be seen in this park, which is their stronghold.

Unfortunately, all these passerines are becoming rarer due to introduced mammals (rats, mongooses, monkeys, cats) and are in desperate need of further protection. Oddly enough, one endemic, the Mauritius grey white-eye, has adapted exceedingly well to Man`s modification of its habitat and is very common, even in hotel gardens. Note however, that outside of Black River Gorges, most of the birds you are likely to see, will be introduced species, which have become abundant on the Mascarenes. These include rubbish like zebra dove, spotted-backed weaver, house sparrow and common waxbill.

The one seabird that all visiting birders wish to see, is the very localized, and rare, Round Island (Trinidad) Petrel, which as its name implies, breeds on the rather inhospitable Round Island off northern Mauritius. To do so it would be sensible to take a boat trip towards dusk.

Rodrigues

The remnants of forest left on Rodrigues, contain possibly more than 90% exotic flora. It is not hard to comprehend then, why 7 of its 42 endemic plants are down to less than 10 specimens each. These include some of the world`s rarest and most endangered plants, like the caffe marron (recently down to a single shrub) and the Rodrigues hibiscus, which mercifully is represented in some foreign collections.

As is the case on the other Mascarenes, introduced mammals and birds have also had a detrimental effect on the island`s ecosystems. And as on the other Mascarenes, many species of bird were exterminated by Man and his ghastly entourage of domestic and introduced animals. Today only two Rodriguan endemics remain. One, the Rodrigues brush warbler, is among the world`s rarest birds. Some 25 - 30 pairs remain. The other is the attractive yellow and orange Rodrigues fody, which belongs to the same genus as its other weaverbird congeners in Mauritius, Seychelles, Aldabra, Comoros and Madagascar. The population of the Rodrigues fody is estimated at about 200 pairs. Both species are not too difficult to locate in the wooded slopes of Citronelle, Solitude and Cascade Pigeons. At the latter you can also see the Rodrigues golden bats. One of the best places in which to search for the warbler and fody is near the research base at Solitude.

If you have a day to spare and wish to see some impressive seabirds, then take an excursion to the nearby islet of Ilot Cocos, a sanctuary for huge breeding colonies of common and lesser Noddys, bridled terns and a few pairs of fairy [white] terns. This can be arranged by your hotel.

When to go:
Any time except cyclone season which is late Jan - early Feb

Organized tours:
Rainbow Tours in London are running a Mascarenes & Seychelles combination tour led by respected birding tour leader Lyn Mair, in Mar - Apr 2002.